If you decided to go looking for it, you might notice that my prior post on this subject was deleted. Basically, that's because I felt I did not do the subject justice upon addressing it. I was not having the best start to the week, and so I just published it more because I was tired than because I thought I did an acceptable job. Thus, while it's still fairly fresh, I'm revisiting it to try to better explain what I mean. Below, the introduction is the same, but I will advance from there.
In contemplating the content for this blog, as it's main focus is on
presentation, I am going to intentionally avoid material that does match
with the character of the blog. Thus, if the blog can seem a little
fashion obsessed, that's because it is, as that's its purpose. However,
taking this into regard, I wanted to take a little time to emphasize
what I consider the role of presentation, as I consider it a small
subset of something much larger, with facets that are significantly more
important than just what I put on in the morning.
To me, the field of clothing is fun, and as you can tell, I enjoy discussing it. That said, it also functions as a
tool of social interaction. It actually does grant us a level of social
respect and/or admiration from others. However, while this can mostly be
a good thing, truth be told, it should compliment what is already
there. Unless it's your very profession, it should not be the focal point of your interactions with others.
The role of clothing is to help present a positive image of yourself towards others, and that's just it. It helps to present you. You are not a mannequin upon which these things are worn, but a person. One of my favorite examples of this philosophy is Cary Grant. You saw a stylish man, but your focus was on the person and not the suit he had on.
Traits such as confidence, humor, intelligence, health, etc. all play a much more important role. Presentation can be helpful. It makes it easier to meet new people. It help you feel better about yourself and how you are perceived. It can be a fun way to express facets of your personality. But in the end, it's just clothes.
Wednesday, June 24, 2015
Saturday, June 20, 2015
Suit
This might surprise people, but a subject I do not really enjoy addressing and honestly prefer not to is what is considered by many to be a fundamental item in any man's wardrobe, the suit. There are numerous reasons why I feel this way, and I won't go into them all here, but I suppose the largest reason however is because there are so many facets and details to a suit that to address each one is itself a chore, let alone finding a perfect one that wouldn't cost you more than your monthly rent or mortgage payment, pre-tailoring.
With that said, I do feel a suit, while perhaps not the fundamental staple to the businessman's wardrobe that it was half a century ago, is still an item that has its place in every man's closet. The reason behind this is because, for vast majority of us, at some point we are going to attend a wedding, a funeral, and/or a job interview. By having the proper type of suit in our closet, we are able to attend all of these events in proper, respectful attire without having to think about it. Because of that, while I do not particular enjoy discussing suits, I will cover what I consider the basics in order of importance. As with everything, this order of important is my personal opinion.
Fit
Quite obviously, the first aspect that needs addressed is how the suit fits. If a suit is made entirely of polyester, has four buttons, sports wide lapels, and is bright purple, but fits well, it will look like a costume, but still better than a suit that gets all the details right, but fits poorly. As such, I'm going to devote the most time to this one.
Now, you can buy made-to-measure suits and, after a few tries, get a perfect fit. This is becoming more popular, by what I see online. However, in this, I'm just going to address an off-the-rack suit, as it's honestly the easiest to deal with, the first time.
When purchasing an off-the-rack suit, do not go into the store thinking that you're going to find a suit that fits you perfectly or 'close enough.' Instead, you're looking for a suit that fits you in a few key areas. In the majority of cases, for the remaining areas, that suit will need brought to a tailor and adjusted to fit you. There are two things to make sure of, when you look at that suit for fit.
First, and believe it or not, this is actually really important, is that the shoulders need to fit. A proper size shoulder will influence the silhouette of that suit upon your figure, and it's one of the areas that tailors can't really alter with any reliability on the outcome. The shoulder should, obviously, end at yours. A simple test for whether it fits is something that I've heard called some variance of the shoulder to wall test (Google). With your arm relaxed at your side, lean into a wall. Both your shoulder and the suit shoulder should touch the wall at the same time.
Second, make sure nothing is too small. Normally, if the shoulders fit right, the body of the suit WILL be a bit baggy on you. This is a good thing, as a tailor can then take in the proportions to fit your figure. However, if it's too small, there's a very limited range in which the tailor can 'let out' the clothing. When you button the suit, it should not stretch at the button, but should comfortably drape. When you hang your arms down at your sides, curl your fingers. If the edge of the suit hangs above the bend in the middle of your fingers, it's too short. Wear a proper-fitting long sleeve shirt into the store or grab a proper-length shirt off the rack and bring it in with you. When wearing it with your arm relaxed at your side, if more than a half inch to three quarters of the cuff of your shirt is showing, the sleeve is too short. The principle goes for the pants, too. If the waist is uncomfortable when buttoned, or the pant leg has absolutely not break to it, odds are it's too small.
If these two measurements work, odds are the remaining features of the suit can be adjusted at the tailor. Personal preference can dictate how some of these work, but this is my opinion on how it should fit, in the end.
If you're just getting one suit, the fabric should be 100% wool, preferably with a super of 100 to 120. The higher the super number, the finer and more delicate the fabric, but you want it fine enough to be soft, flexible, and breathable. Honestly, the easiest thing to do is just to check the tag to make sure the shell is 100% wool, then feel the outside to see if it's to your liking.
Also, on the interior, you'll often find a satin fabric. This is its lining. If possible, look for one in which only the front of the jacket and the shoulders are lined, which is typically called half-lined.
Color
When it comes to color, the options usually fall into categories of blue and grey. Honestly, for versatility, a navy blue or charcoal grey are your best bets. If you want to expand beyond that, a navy pinstripe is classic, or a medium to light grey solid also works.
As a side note, while black was once popular and probably will be again, at some point, this follows a pattern of trends. In my opinion, if done right, there's nothing wrong with it. But if you want versatile, it should not be your go-to color.
Details
A lot of these are quick hits, so I felt like I'd address them all at once.
I sort of felt I'd need to do a post on suits, at some point. In the modern age, suits are becoming less and less of a mandatory option to wear, in my opinion. However, they will likely always have a place, and it does work to one's favor to go out and purchase one.
Anything you want to add, or anything you disagree with? Anything you think I missed? Comment below!
With that said, I do feel a suit, while perhaps not the fundamental staple to the businessman's wardrobe that it was half a century ago, is still an item that has its place in every man's closet. The reason behind this is because, for vast majority of us, at some point we are going to attend a wedding, a funeral, and/or a job interview. By having the proper type of suit in our closet, we are able to attend all of these events in proper, respectful attire without having to think about it. Because of that, while I do not particular enjoy discussing suits, I will cover what I consider the basics in order of importance. As with everything, this order of important is my personal opinion.
Fit
Quite obviously, the first aspect that needs addressed is how the suit fits. If a suit is made entirely of polyester, has four buttons, sports wide lapels, and is bright purple, but fits well, it will look like a costume, but still better than a suit that gets all the details right, but fits poorly. As such, I'm going to devote the most time to this one.
Now, you can buy made-to-measure suits and, after a few tries, get a perfect fit. This is becoming more popular, by what I see online. However, in this, I'm just going to address an off-the-rack suit, as it's honestly the easiest to deal with, the first time.
When purchasing an off-the-rack suit, do not go into the store thinking that you're going to find a suit that fits you perfectly or 'close enough.' Instead, you're looking for a suit that fits you in a few key areas. In the majority of cases, for the remaining areas, that suit will need brought to a tailor and adjusted to fit you. There are two things to make sure of, when you look at that suit for fit.
First, and believe it or not, this is actually really important, is that the shoulders need to fit. A proper size shoulder will influence the silhouette of that suit upon your figure, and it's one of the areas that tailors can't really alter with any reliability on the outcome. The shoulder should, obviously, end at yours. A simple test for whether it fits is something that I've heard called some variance of the shoulder to wall test (Google). With your arm relaxed at your side, lean into a wall. Both your shoulder and the suit shoulder should touch the wall at the same time.
Second, make sure nothing is too small. Normally, if the shoulders fit right, the body of the suit WILL be a bit baggy on you. This is a good thing, as a tailor can then take in the proportions to fit your figure. However, if it's too small, there's a very limited range in which the tailor can 'let out' the clothing. When you button the suit, it should not stretch at the button, but should comfortably drape. When you hang your arms down at your sides, curl your fingers. If the edge of the suit hangs above the bend in the middle of your fingers, it's too short. Wear a proper-fitting long sleeve shirt into the store or grab a proper-length shirt off the rack and bring it in with you. When wearing it with your arm relaxed at your side, if more than a half inch to three quarters of the cuff of your shirt is showing, the sleeve is too short. The principle goes for the pants, too. If the waist is uncomfortable when buttoned, or the pant leg has absolutely not break to it, odds are it's too small.
If these two measurements work, odds are the remaining features of the suit can be adjusted at the tailor. Personal preference can dictate how some of these work, but this is my opinion on how it should fit, in the end.
- When you stand up straight, with the suit draping properly, there should be no "X" at the button from a stretching of fabric. The suit should be JUST BARELY roomy enough to layer a lightweight sweater on top of a dress shirt without this happening.
- With the above tests mentioned, the bottom of the jacket shoulder fall just into the pits if your fingers, and between one half and three quarters inch of shirt sleeve should be showing (I'll honestly admit, I'm bad at this with sleeves, as while I only have one suit, I have four jackets, which are all a bit overboard in one of either directions, and I can't bring myself to take them to a tailor to fix JUST that).
- The pants should fit comfortably at the waist, and there should be a slight break in the trousers, when you're wearing dress shoes. Also, the legs of the trousers should hang comfortably enough for movement, but be close enough to the leg to show the figure of the person.
If you're just getting one suit, the fabric should be 100% wool, preferably with a super of 100 to 120. The higher the super number, the finer and more delicate the fabric, but you want it fine enough to be soft, flexible, and breathable. Honestly, the easiest thing to do is just to check the tag to make sure the shell is 100% wool, then feel the outside to see if it's to your liking.
Also, on the interior, you'll often find a satin fabric. This is its lining. If possible, look for one in which only the front of the jacket and the shoulders are lined, which is typically called half-lined.
Color
When it comes to color, the options usually fall into categories of blue and grey. Honestly, for versatility, a navy blue or charcoal grey are your best bets. If you want to expand beyond that, a navy pinstripe is classic, or a medium to light grey solid also works.
As a side note, while black was once popular and probably will be again, at some point, this follows a pattern of trends. In my opinion, if done right, there's nothing wrong with it. But if you want versatile, it should not be your go-to color.
Details
A lot of these are quick hits, so I felt like I'd address them all at once.
- Try and stick to two-buttons if you can, for a starter suits. Three buttons can go in and out of style, but two buttons is pretty universal.
- Try to keep your lapels at about 2.5 to 3 inches. If you're slender, you might be able to pull of thinner lapel, but for those of us, i.e. most, that carry a bit of both fat and muscle on us, these dimensions are the safest.
- I'd heard that side vents are the best option from a number of sources, and I'm inclined to agree. However, if you like a center vent more, it isn't really a problem.
- Four-button sleeves are often the most common. I don't really know any hard and fast rule about four buttons being mandatory, but in terms of convenience and recognition, it's best just to stick with it.
I sort of felt I'd need to do a post on suits, at some point. In the modern age, suits are becoming less and less of a mandatory option to wear, in my opinion. However, they will likely always have a place, and it does work to one's favor to go out and purchase one.
Anything you want to add, or anything you disagree with? Anything you think I missed? Comment below!
Friday, June 12, 2015
Cologne
To my understanding, not everyone is enthusiastic about cologne, or in a more generic sense, fragrance. There are individuals that dislike fragrances in general, and even some who it affects their allergies, which has, at times, even influenced company policy or law. And, to be honest, I can understand this. But, in my opinion, the problem was often due to that one person.
I think many of us have experienced that individual, and admittedly, I was once it. Where they applied far too many sprays and gagged those around them, all the while utterly convinced that they smelled fantastic. This is not how it's done.
Also, there are many who generally prefer to smell clean, or not smell at all. Added to that, we already have scents in our shampoo, our body soap, our shaving cream, our deodorant, etc. With these in mind, simply to add another scent to the mix seems like a waste of money. Honestly, if you're in one of these camps, I understand and am not here to convert you. This isn't everyone's thing, and I get that. That said, in years past, I was an avid lover of colognes and over that time slowly amassed a collection that I still have. Today, I still wear and enjoy colognes, and while I still boast quite a few bottles, I can't say I'm as enthusiastic as I used to be.
This post is for those who, like me, are interested in or would like to check out colognes and want to use them to smell good, and I thought I'd just wanted to do a general introduction. The world of colognes is hardly small and not inexpensive. If your experience is like mine, you have little to no idea about where to start or what you're looking for, let alone what smells good on you or performs like you want it to. I wanted to share some tips for how to look that I've come to find and use.
Sampling in store
When I was into colognes, I would spend time doing research into a particular one that I was looking at after hearing about it. If my interest continued, I would look into the notes on websites like Basenotes, check reviews on Youtube, and go deal hunting. However, for people that don't take up colognes as a hobby, this is largely impractical. My recommendations for those that just want to smell good is to actually try out a cologne before you make a purchase.
To do this, the first tip would obviously be to go to a store and sample. Don't just go in and grab one, but actually try them out. Places like Sephora have a good collection you can look through, and they provide strips of paper so that you don't have to actually spray it on skin, allowing you to try a variety of options. Find a store that has testers for you try out.
However, when you sample, don't just move from one to the next in succession non-stop. There's something called olfactory fatigue, in which your sense of smell becomes accustomed to certain notes you'll find, and so you'll actually lose some of your sensitivity to smells. Instead, often you'll find is a container full of coffee beans sitting on the shelves. After smelling a few options, open up these containers and breathe in. The smell of the coffee will actually help to restore some of your sensitivity.
If you find on you really like, go ahead and spray it on your hand or wrist, then put the bottle back on the shelf. Get one initial smell of what it's like on your skin, then go walk around the store. After about a half hour, smell it again. Colognes typically have three stages: the opening, the heart, and the drydown. A lot of mass-produced colognes have fantastic openings to try to catch the wearer into buying it, but as it dries down, it will change. You want to find a cologne that smells good all the way through. After about a half hour, when you smell where you sprayed, THAT lets you know what you will smell like when you wear it.
Buying
My second tip concerns how to buy the cologne, to which I will say: don't buy at the store immediately. Put the cologne back on the shelf and leave. Instead, go to Fragrantica and do a search for that cologne. On their website, they will give a detailed description of the cologne, and the users of the website will post reviews concerning its longevity and projection. These can help you acquire an average estimate of how it will perform.
If it does as well as you'd like, or if you don't care and just want to buy the cologne anyway (been there, done it, have some), I would then check out a site called Fragrancenet. Reason being this site often has discounts, and they're usually running sales on their stock, so you can find deals for much less than if you bought them from the store.
As a side note, while the site is often reliable, the fact is, if you buy online, you run the risk of counterfeits, especially if the cologne you like is more popular. To check the one you receive, there's a website called checkcosmetic that you just run the batch code through to verify.
Application
My third tip concerns how to wear it. There can be a learning curve, when it comes to fragrances, as to where and how much is reasonable to apply.
To start, along the body, there are what are referred to as pulse points, where the blood vessels are closer to the skin. Because of this, these areas emit a greater amount of heat, and so the oils, upon being sprayed on the skin, emit further away from you. While there are a number of points along the body that are actual pulse points, the general spots tend to be around the neck, the inner arm, and/or the wrist. However, you can apply elsewhere if you'd like, as this is by no means mandatory.
When you spray, however, it is better to follow the cliche, 'less is more.' Two sprays, on different points, is usually a pretty safe starting point. My personal recommendation for testing is one on the front of the neck and one on the back, at the base of the hairline. If it's a weak cologne, it will go unnoticed, but if it's a strong cologne, it won't be too overpowering. If you feel that you need a bit more, go with three sprays. Also, after a time, you will not be able to smell it as easily, and will only get occasional whiffs of what you're wearing. Hear me when I say DO NOT take this as an indication that you need to reapply. If you're wondering if the cologne is wearing down, get a second opinion. You probably got used to the smell, and so you don't detect it as easily. Never take that on its own to mean it's just not there.
Storage
My final tip concerns storage. You may often hear colognes given with a certain expiry date. However, if you care for your colognes properly, you can make them last for several years or until you drain the bottle. The easiest way is to just follow two simple rules.
Don't store them in your bathroom. The reason for this is that, when you take showers, you rapidly fluctuate the temperature in the room. A few times won't hurt, but a repeating cycle of warm to hot to warm over time can damage the juice and alter the scent to something different and unpleasant. You want the colognes to remain at a fairly stable temperature.
Keep them some place dark. The direct ultraviolet rays of the sun cause damage over time to the juice as well, and so you want to keep them some place away from this. Ideally, a dresser drawer, a cabinet, etc. would work just fine in preserving them.
Recommended starting points
If you wanted a few bottles that are generally pretty safe to check out or experiment with, these would be my personal recommendations to initially check out. However, it's totally up to you how you want to go about it. I have spotted all of these in local fragrance stores, so you can check them out in person, if you want to.
I didn't go too in depth into the technical terms and plan to do that in the future, but for now, I hope this helps those who are curious about the idea.
I think many of us have experienced that individual, and admittedly, I was once it. Where they applied far too many sprays and gagged those around them, all the while utterly convinced that they smelled fantastic. This is not how it's done.
Also, there are many who generally prefer to smell clean, or not smell at all. Added to that, we already have scents in our shampoo, our body soap, our shaving cream, our deodorant, etc. With these in mind, simply to add another scent to the mix seems like a waste of money. Honestly, if you're in one of these camps, I understand and am not here to convert you. This isn't everyone's thing, and I get that. That said, in years past, I was an avid lover of colognes and over that time slowly amassed a collection that I still have. Today, I still wear and enjoy colognes, and while I still boast quite a few bottles, I can't say I'm as enthusiastic as I used to be.
This post is for those who, like me, are interested in or would like to check out colognes and want to use them to smell good, and I thought I'd just wanted to do a general introduction. The world of colognes is hardly small and not inexpensive. If your experience is like mine, you have little to no idea about where to start or what you're looking for, let alone what smells good on you or performs like you want it to. I wanted to share some tips for how to look that I've come to find and use.
Sampling in store
When I was into colognes, I would spend time doing research into a particular one that I was looking at after hearing about it. If my interest continued, I would look into the notes on websites like Basenotes, check reviews on Youtube, and go deal hunting. However, for people that don't take up colognes as a hobby, this is largely impractical. My recommendations for those that just want to smell good is to actually try out a cologne before you make a purchase.
To do this, the first tip would obviously be to go to a store and sample. Don't just go in and grab one, but actually try them out. Places like Sephora have a good collection you can look through, and they provide strips of paper so that you don't have to actually spray it on skin, allowing you to try a variety of options. Find a store that has testers for you try out.
However, when you sample, don't just move from one to the next in succession non-stop. There's something called olfactory fatigue, in which your sense of smell becomes accustomed to certain notes you'll find, and so you'll actually lose some of your sensitivity to smells. Instead, often you'll find is a container full of coffee beans sitting on the shelves. After smelling a few options, open up these containers and breathe in. The smell of the coffee will actually help to restore some of your sensitivity.
If you find on you really like, go ahead and spray it on your hand or wrist, then put the bottle back on the shelf. Get one initial smell of what it's like on your skin, then go walk around the store. After about a half hour, smell it again. Colognes typically have three stages: the opening, the heart, and the drydown. A lot of mass-produced colognes have fantastic openings to try to catch the wearer into buying it, but as it dries down, it will change. You want to find a cologne that smells good all the way through. After about a half hour, when you smell where you sprayed, THAT lets you know what you will smell like when you wear it.
Buying
My second tip concerns how to buy the cologne, to which I will say: don't buy at the store immediately. Put the cologne back on the shelf and leave. Instead, go to Fragrantica and do a search for that cologne. On their website, they will give a detailed description of the cologne, and the users of the website will post reviews concerning its longevity and projection. These can help you acquire an average estimate of how it will perform.
If it does as well as you'd like, or if you don't care and just want to buy the cologne anyway (been there, done it, have some), I would then check out a site called Fragrancenet. Reason being this site often has discounts, and they're usually running sales on their stock, so you can find deals for much less than if you bought them from the store.
As a side note, while the site is often reliable, the fact is, if you buy online, you run the risk of counterfeits, especially if the cologne you like is more popular. To check the one you receive, there's a website called checkcosmetic that you just run the batch code through to verify.
Application
My third tip concerns how to wear it. There can be a learning curve, when it comes to fragrances, as to where and how much is reasonable to apply.
To start, along the body, there are what are referred to as pulse points, where the blood vessels are closer to the skin. Because of this, these areas emit a greater amount of heat, and so the oils, upon being sprayed on the skin, emit further away from you. While there are a number of points along the body that are actual pulse points, the general spots tend to be around the neck, the inner arm, and/or the wrist. However, you can apply elsewhere if you'd like, as this is by no means mandatory.
When you spray, however, it is better to follow the cliche, 'less is more.' Two sprays, on different points, is usually a pretty safe starting point. My personal recommendation for testing is one on the front of the neck and one on the back, at the base of the hairline. If it's a weak cologne, it will go unnoticed, but if it's a strong cologne, it won't be too overpowering. If you feel that you need a bit more, go with three sprays. Also, after a time, you will not be able to smell it as easily, and will only get occasional whiffs of what you're wearing. Hear me when I say DO NOT take this as an indication that you need to reapply. If you're wondering if the cologne is wearing down, get a second opinion. You probably got used to the smell, and so you don't detect it as easily. Never take that on its own to mean it's just not there.
Storage
My final tip concerns storage. You may often hear colognes given with a certain expiry date. However, if you care for your colognes properly, you can make them last for several years or until you drain the bottle. The easiest way is to just follow two simple rules.
Don't store them in your bathroom. The reason for this is that, when you take showers, you rapidly fluctuate the temperature in the room. A few times won't hurt, but a repeating cycle of warm to hot to warm over time can damage the juice and alter the scent to something different and unpleasant. You want the colognes to remain at a fairly stable temperature.
Keep them some place dark. The direct ultraviolet rays of the sun cause damage over time to the juice as well, and so you want to keep them some place away from this. Ideally, a dresser drawer, a cabinet, etc. would work just fine in preserving them.
Recommended starting points
If you wanted a few bottles that are generally pretty safe to check out or experiment with, these would be my personal recommendations to initially check out. However, it's totally up to you how you want to go about it. I have spotted all of these in local fragrance stores, so you can check them out in person, if you want to.
- Acqua Di Gio, by Giorgio Armani. Released in 1996, it's still sells well today. It was actually so popular that it was over-hyped, and for a while (I don't know if it still is), it was one of the best selling in the world, which led to its share of people disliking it. However, it was popular for a reason. Good introduction into the field of colognes known as aquatics, which tend to be citrus based. Fresh and clean.
- If you want a bit sweeter and richer of a cologne, L'Homme, by Yves Saint Laurent, is a good starting point. Ginger based, and the tonka bean gives a sweet vanilla note that pairs well. It's subtle enough that it's not going to overpower anyone, either.
- The One, by Dolce & Gabbana. This one is often reviewed as having a fantastic smell, but has a reputation for being lacking in projection and longevity. That said, this also can make it a safe scent to check out. I would suppose the best description I can give would be that is has something of a tropical night sense to it.
I didn't go too in depth into the technical terms and plan to do that in the future, but for now, I hope this helps those who are curious about the idea.
Monday, June 8, 2015
Dress Shirts
In my opinion, the white dress shirt is a staple that can be easily integrated into almost any man's wardrobe. The origins of its status goes back centuries, to an era where it was a sign of wealth, being that those in the upper class could afford to actually wash them. Its history, combined with it's clean and simple nature, makes it incredibly close to timeless, and it is one of the easiest changes to make to improve an outfit. That said, however, it's still only one facet in the larger field of the button-up shirt, and even then it fits into a smaller field of dress shirt. For the majority of this post, we're going to focus on that smaller field, and at the end, I'll give my recommendation for what I consider the most versatile dress shirt one can own.
To start off, how I define a dress shirt actually will help, in this case. In my opinion, the primary things that distinguishes a dress shirt are its length (not only in general body length, but especially the tail) and the fabric. I consider a dress shirt to be any high-thread count button-up shirt specifically designed to be tucked in. There are other voices out there with differing definitions, and this is admittedly a simplistic one, but for the purposes of this post, this is what is going to be used.
Whereas a button-up is a shirt, a button-down refers to the collar type, and they are what they say. The collar tips are fastened to the shirt via buttons at the base of the neck. These are the most casual of the three options and are great for a laid-back, comfortable look. They are not meant for formal wear, though.
Cuffs
With that...
Concluding
There is much more that can actually be said about the dress shirts, such as the placket/pleats/darting/etc, but I wanted to cover the primary items to consider when looking at a dress shirt and give my opinions on each of them.
And so, with this in mind, I'll go full-circle and return to the white dress shirt mentioned at the beginning, and I'll describe what I believe serves best on most occasions. As a fundamental article, and for the reasons above, what I consider the most versatile options for any dress shirt is a solid white, 100% cotton poplin shirt with a point or spread collar and barrel cuffs.
Longest... explanation... ever...
Anything you agree or disagree with? Anything you'd have liked to see me address or think I missed? Comment below!
To start off, how I define a dress shirt actually will help, in this case. In my opinion, the primary things that distinguishes a dress shirt are its length (not only in general body length, but especially the tail) and the fabric. I consider a dress shirt to be any high-thread count button-up shirt specifically designed to be tucked in. There are other voices out there with differing definitions, and this is admittedly a simplistic one, but for the purposes of this post, this is what is going to be used.
(Thanks)
The first and most essential aspect, as with any garment, is the fit. It should fit close to the torso, but not cling or stretch. If you are like me and wear undershirts, you would need to take this into account. A perfect fit would allow the dress shirt to perfectly emphasize the physique of the wearer, and quite frankly, in the majority of cases, this requires a tailor.
Now, for the various details of the shirt...
Fabric
I think that many of you wouldn't give a flying armadillo about the different varieties of fabric, but for those interested, here's a basic rundown.
With that, my own personal recommendation for a basic dress shirt would be poplin, broadcloth, or end-on-end. Reason being is that these are probably the most breathable and comfortable fabric options, and they work year-round. I do have some pinpoints in my closet that I love, but as summer is finally hitting here, I'm wearing them less and less.
Now, when I read the labels, there are two things I look for.
First, I look to see if the shirt is 100% cotton. There are a variety of dress shirts that have a cotton/polyester blend, but every time I try one on, even while I'm in the dressing room and even if the shirt isn't scratchy or irritating on the skin (they often are, at least to me), I begin to perspire.
Second, is I look to see if the shirt is non-iron or not. Personal preference, if it's non-iron/easy-iron/wrinkle-free/etc, I won't buy it. While I've encountered those who absolutely hate it, my reason is that I just find that regular cotton is more comfortable. Honestly, though, if you prefer not to iron your shirts after washing them, I would say it's totally up to you.
Collar
The collar should fit around the neck that, when closed, you can put just two fingers down the opening comfortably. This will ensure that it hangs well on the neck without looking sloppy, but also keeps you from choking yourself trying to tie a tie.
When it comes to collars, there are a multitude of options, and frankly, I can't link you to a single source that covers everything, as I can usually find options they missed, and there are options I don't even think about until I see them being addressed. Because of this, I'm just going to focus on what I consider the three most-common: point, spread, and button-down.
Point and spread collars are the most basic, I would say. Point is probably the go-to standard and works in the majority of situations. Spread, my personal favorite, is slightly dressier but almost as versatile. Honestly, I would say that they're so interchangeable that it's really just personal preference. As a side note, though, just to say it, a spread may require a fuller tie knot, should you choose to wear one with it, whereas the point can accommodate something slimmer.
Now, for the various details of the shirt...
Fabric
I think that many of you wouldn't give a flying armadillo about the different varieties of fabric, but for those interested, here's a basic rundown.
With that, my own personal recommendation for a basic dress shirt would be poplin, broadcloth, or end-on-end. Reason being is that these are probably the most breathable and comfortable fabric options, and they work year-round. I do have some pinpoints in my closet that I love, but as summer is finally hitting here, I'm wearing them less and less.
Now, when I read the labels, there are two things I look for.
First, I look to see if the shirt is 100% cotton. There are a variety of dress shirts that have a cotton/polyester blend, but every time I try one on, even while I'm in the dressing room and even if the shirt isn't scratchy or irritating on the skin (they often are, at least to me), I begin to perspire.
Second, is I look to see if the shirt is non-iron or not. Personal preference, if it's non-iron/easy-iron/wrinkle-free/etc, I won't buy it. While I've encountered those who absolutely hate it, my reason is that I just find that regular cotton is more comfortable. Honestly, though, if you prefer not to iron your shirts after washing them, I would say it's totally up to you.
Collar
The collar should fit around the neck that, when closed, you can put just two fingers down the opening comfortably. This will ensure that it hangs well on the neck without looking sloppy, but also keeps you from choking yourself trying to tie a tie.
When it comes to collars, there are a multitude of options, and frankly, I can't link you to a single source that covers everything, as I can usually find options they missed, and there are options I don't even think about until I see them being addressed. Because of this, I'm just going to focus on what I consider the three most-common: point, spread, and button-down.
Point and spread collars are the most basic, I would say. Point is probably the go-to standard and works in the majority of situations. Spread, my personal favorite, is slightly dressier but almost as versatile. Honestly, I would say that they're so interchangeable that it's really just personal preference. As a side note, though, just to say it, a spread may require a fuller tie knot, should you choose to wear one with it, whereas the point can accommodate something slimmer.
Whereas a button-up is a shirt, a button-down refers to the collar type, and they are what they say. The collar tips are fastened to the shirt via buttons at the base of the neck. These are the most casual of the three options and are great for a laid-back, comfortable look. They are not meant for formal wear, though.
Cuffs
The cuff should reach down to the base of the hand, when your hand is laying at your side. This is a length that allows a little bit of cuff to show, when wearing a jacket or a sweater.
Most (I'd say all, but there are, in fact, alternatives) options you'll find fall into one of two categories of cuffs. There's the barrel cuff and the French cuff.
The French cuff, in my opinion, adds a nice flair to a dressed-up outfit, especially with an awesome pair of cufflinks. However, that having been said, most shirts you'll find have the barrel cuff, which works for 99% of situations perfectly fine. Because of this, I don't really feel the need to go into detail on it.
With that...
Concluding
There is much more that can actually be said about the dress shirts, such as the placket/pleats/darting/etc, but I wanted to cover the primary items to consider when looking at a dress shirt and give my opinions on each of them.
And so, with this in mind, I'll go full-circle and return to the white dress shirt mentioned at the beginning, and I'll describe what I believe serves best on most occasions. As a fundamental article, and for the reasons above, what I consider the most versatile options for any dress shirt is a solid white, 100% cotton poplin shirt with a point or spread collar and barrel cuffs.
Longest... explanation... ever...
Anything you agree or disagree with? Anything you'd have liked to see me address or think I missed? Comment below!
Thursday, June 4, 2015
Value Shopping
When I decided I wanted to minimize the amount of clothes in my closet, I put a greater emphasis on the quality of the clothes I bought (By the end of this post, I can tell you, you are going to HATE the word 'quality,' as there are only so many ways to say it, so I don't even bother trying variety). Instead of owning a large amount of clothes that I thought felt and looked okay, I wanted clothing that looked good on me, but also felt good wearing. Thus, I began searching for better quality items, and I encountered a problem.
Yes, it's true that higher price does not mean better. But all the same, quality clothes are expensive.
Perhaps it's just me and this is an unfair assessment, but I often get frustrated with the prices attached to a variety of well-made clothing. Names stereotypically associated with quality clothing often charge prices for their on-sale goods that easily exceed full prices at lower-end department stores. Some examples are how dress shirts from Brooks Brothers can cost $40 on clearance, and full price easily exceed $90, sometimes even breaking into the hundreds, and yes, I mean that as a plural. One of the most famous brands for amazing shoes is Allen Edmonds, but their flagship models, like the Strand or Park Avenue, often exceed $300 at full retail, with re-crafting services available at $50 a pop (minimum) when they wear down. And these aren't even the TOP TIER, but the POPULAR options, and are considered more affordable! And yes, the truth is that the quality of the items, to some degree, does warrant a more expensive price tag, as these items will last quite a while, but that's the thing. To buy quality, you need to be willing to spend a little more at retail.
The typical argument is as follows, and it's accurate... to a degree. In buying these kinds of goods, in the long run, they are actually less expensive, as they will not need to be repaired or replaced as often. A pair of Aldens dress shoes, properly cared for, will last you half your life or longer. A pair of A.P.C. jeans will last you a decade of constant use before they break down. Leather goods from companies like Saddleback can practically become heirlooms. And all of these will cost you.
That said, I've found some ways to get around this, and I will share below a few of the different means I have for doing so. But I also want to recommend beforehand, which is to identify what you want to have that's of good quality, and what you're okay with being of regular or sub-par. Examples for me would be something like a polo shirt or a pair of chinos. So long as they fit well and are comfortable, I'm fine with them and don't care as much about their construction, and very slightly about the fabric (I have a thing against polyester, in most cases). However, when it comes to dress shirts, I'm incredibly picky about what I look for.
The first tip is to take the time to learn what makes a well-made item. One example would be looking for top-grain leather instead of a patent leather, or a Goodyear welt for shoes, as many soles of shoes are glued. Another would perhaps be a merino wool sweater in comparison to acrylic.
Please note, from this point forward, this list goes from most expensive options to least expensive. I only list them as options, depending on what you'd be looking for. Also, I list these brands as examples of what I mean, not advertisements, and what works for me might not work for you, so just take them with a grain of salt.
The second tip is to keep an eye out for sales, and browse clearance racks, for these kinds of brands instead of paying full retail. The advantage to this is that many brands, including some of the brands even mentioned above, actually do offer items on sale and clearance, and so you can get them for significantly less than you would have initially. In waiting for something to be discounted or a sale, you may come to realize that you don't want to spent the money to get that item, which, in my opinion, is a good thing. The downside to this, however, is that it also means you're still going to be spending quite a bit, and to be honest, for this reason I don't think I've ever used this myself, but if you're okay with spending that kind of money, it's an option.
The third tip is to look for alternative brands. Many items are expensive because of the name attached to them, but you can find items that suit the purpose just as easily elsewhere. For example, Brooks Brothers is revered for its shirts, but companies like Charles Tyrwhitt make a comparable product, and often much offer better deals with the occasional coupon to boot. Wolverine is known for making an incredible boot called the 1000 Mile, whereas CAT (yes, them) makes a decent boot called the Orson for nearly a third the price, and often lower than that, with the discounts it gets on Amazon. Look around at companies to see who has the best value for the goods. Now, it still will not likely be cheap, but this range is quite a bit more reasonable, in my opinion, though only for the items that it makes sense to do so.
The fourth option is my personal most-used method. There are a number of stores that markets more towards those that are typically on a budget. Depending on the quality of the item you're looking for, Gap's three stores (Old Navy, Gap, and Banana Republic) are constantly running discounts of one sort or another, and I wait for the good ones and stack these on top of existing clearance items for as low as I can get them. Uniqlo can also be pretty good for basic items like polos and t-shirts, and I don't think I need to convince anyone reading this about the wonder that is Target. Most of the time, you can find what you're looking for here without having to saw off a part of your anatomy to present to the cashier. Simply look for the brands in this range that fit you best, both physically and for your wallet, and watch for sales on the items you're looking for.
The fifth option, my personal favorite (though not most-used) is to check out places like Goodwill, visit resale shops in the city (Scout's is an example), or head online to stores like eBay. You can find really good items in these stores, and a number of my friends practically swear by them. Though, I do warn you, if you want the item to fit well, in this arena, finding a tailor is a good idea.
I wish to make a side note about eBay, though, as it's my personal choice. Something I learned is that eBay can be tricky, when it comes to getting what you're looking for, in terms of fit. While a tailor can adjust an article of clothing, there's only so much they can do without having to charge almost what it'd cost for the full retail, so you need to get as close a fit as possible. To do this, find a garment of the type you're looking for and measure it according to the dimensions you're looking for on the garment. On eBay, a lot of the more knowledgeable vendors will actually post the dimensions of their goods in the description, and you compare with these to try and get a rough estimate of what you'd be buying.
Well, those above are means both I've heard of and that I've personally used when shopping. Do you have any tips or tricks you personally use? Anything you think I should change? Comment below!
Yes, it's true that higher price does not mean better. But all the same, quality clothes are expensive.
Perhaps it's just me and this is an unfair assessment, but I often get frustrated with the prices attached to a variety of well-made clothing. Names stereotypically associated with quality clothing often charge prices for their on-sale goods that easily exceed full prices at lower-end department stores. Some examples are how dress shirts from Brooks Brothers can cost $40 on clearance, and full price easily exceed $90, sometimes even breaking into the hundreds, and yes, I mean that as a plural. One of the most famous brands for amazing shoes is Allen Edmonds, but their flagship models, like the Strand or Park Avenue, often exceed $300 at full retail, with re-crafting services available at $50 a pop (minimum) when they wear down. And these aren't even the TOP TIER, but the POPULAR options, and are considered more affordable! And yes, the truth is that the quality of the items, to some degree, does warrant a more expensive price tag, as these items will last quite a while, but that's the thing. To buy quality, you need to be willing to spend a little more at retail.
The typical argument is as follows, and it's accurate... to a degree. In buying these kinds of goods, in the long run, they are actually less expensive, as they will not need to be repaired or replaced as often. A pair of Aldens dress shoes, properly cared for, will last you half your life or longer. A pair of A.P.C. jeans will last you a decade of constant use before they break down. Leather goods from companies like Saddleback can practically become heirlooms. And all of these will cost you.
That said, I've found some ways to get around this, and I will share below a few of the different means I have for doing so. But I also want to recommend beforehand, which is to identify what you want to have that's of good quality, and what you're okay with being of regular or sub-par. Examples for me would be something like a polo shirt or a pair of chinos. So long as they fit well and are comfortable, I'm fine with them and don't care as much about their construction, and very slightly about the fabric (I have a thing against polyester, in most cases). However, when it comes to dress shirts, I'm incredibly picky about what I look for.
The first tip is to take the time to learn what makes a well-made item. One example would be looking for top-grain leather instead of a patent leather, or a Goodyear welt for shoes, as many soles of shoes are glued. Another would perhaps be a merino wool sweater in comparison to acrylic.
Please note, from this point forward, this list goes from most expensive options to least expensive. I only list them as options, depending on what you'd be looking for. Also, I list these brands as examples of what I mean, not advertisements, and what works for me might not work for you, so just take them with a grain of salt.
The second tip is to keep an eye out for sales, and browse clearance racks, for these kinds of brands instead of paying full retail. The advantage to this is that many brands, including some of the brands even mentioned above, actually do offer items on sale and clearance, and so you can get them for significantly less than you would have initially. In waiting for something to be discounted or a sale, you may come to realize that you don't want to spent the money to get that item, which, in my opinion, is a good thing. The downside to this, however, is that it also means you're still going to be spending quite a bit, and to be honest, for this reason I don't think I've ever used this myself, but if you're okay with spending that kind of money, it's an option.
The third tip is to look for alternative brands. Many items are expensive because of the name attached to them, but you can find items that suit the purpose just as easily elsewhere. For example, Brooks Brothers is revered for its shirts, but companies like Charles Tyrwhitt make a comparable product, and often much offer better deals with the occasional coupon to boot. Wolverine is known for making an incredible boot called the 1000 Mile, whereas CAT (yes, them) makes a decent boot called the Orson for nearly a third the price, and often lower than that, with the discounts it gets on Amazon. Look around at companies to see who has the best value for the goods. Now, it still will not likely be cheap, but this range is quite a bit more reasonable, in my opinion, though only for the items that it makes sense to do so.
The fourth option is my personal most-used method. There are a number of stores that markets more towards those that are typically on a budget. Depending on the quality of the item you're looking for, Gap's three stores (Old Navy, Gap, and Banana Republic) are constantly running discounts of one sort or another, and I wait for the good ones and stack these on top of existing clearance items for as low as I can get them. Uniqlo can also be pretty good for basic items like polos and t-shirts, and I don't think I need to convince anyone reading this about the wonder that is Target. Most of the time, you can find what you're looking for here without having to saw off a part of your anatomy to present to the cashier. Simply look for the brands in this range that fit you best, both physically and for your wallet, and watch for sales on the items you're looking for.
The fifth option, my personal favorite (though not most-used) is to check out places like Goodwill, visit resale shops in the city (Scout's is an example), or head online to stores like eBay. You can find really good items in these stores, and a number of my friends practically swear by them. Though, I do warn you, if you want the item to fit well, in this arena, finding a tailor is a good idea.
I wish to make a side note about eBay, though, as it's my personal choice. Something I learned is that eBay can be tricky, when it comes to getting what you're looking for, in terms of fit. While a tailor can adjust an article of clothing, there's only so much they can do without having to charge almost what it'd cost for the full retail, so you need to get as close a fit as possible. To do this, find a garment of the type you're looking for and measure it according to the dimensions you're looking for on the garment. On eBay, a lot of the more knowledgeable vendors will actually post the dimensions of their goods in the description, and you compare with these to try and get a rough estimate of what you'd be buying.
Well, those above are means both I've heard of and that I've personally used when shopping. Do you have any tips or tricks you personally use? Anything you think I should change? Comment below!
Monday, June 1, 2015
Vintage Style
Perhaps my favorite hobby and interest is that of the swing dance genre, and those who read this blog are also likely, in some way, aware of or are associated with the local scene here in Omaha, NE, the Omaha Jitterbugs. Thus, something I wanted to incorporate into my blog was the aspect of vintage style.
A little back story to explain. In the 30s and 40s, there was a popular dance that had developed in the 20s in New York as a hybrid of multiple preceding dances, and this was known as the Lindyhop (while we're not entirely sure of the name's full origins, it's often been associated with the flight of Charles Lindbergh). This scene died out in the era following WWII and was replaced by numerous other dances that more suited the modern, popular music of the times. (Read the article linked for a more thorough discussion of the history.)
However, come the 80s, this scene experienced a revival with a number of the names associated with its origins being discovered to aid in bringing back the scene. Today, it has achieved worldwide popularity.
Now, I do not think this article does the actual history justice, as this is a style blog primarily, and so I encourage you to actually go and research the topic. It is an interesting study. Why I bring this up, however, is that in the modern setting, there has also been a resurrected interest in the styles of the era from which the dance originated.
While I could try to incorporate guidelines for how to recreate vintage style, I actually want to take a different route, as, truth be told, I think it would be more fun to present examples and imagery associated with the era from which to steal ideas. With the modern insurgence of men's style, there are virtually endless resources and examples to choose from, and frankly, there are some men who are just so good at it that it's unfair, presenting a far better example than I could.
This post is more just to give an idea of mine without going into detail, but it's definitely something I want to dive into. Hopefully, you'll enjoy me doing so.
Is there anything with vintage you'd want to see me write about? What sort of items do you have or do you like? Comment below!
A little back story to explain. In the 30s and 40s, there was a popular dance that had developed in the 20s in New York as a hybrid of multiple preceding dances, and this was known as the Lindyhop (while we're not entirely sure of the name's full origins, it's often been associated with the flight of Charles Lindbergh). This scene died out in the era following WWII and was replaced by numerous other dances that more suited the modern, popular music of the times. (Read the article linked for a more thorough discussion of the history.)
However, come the 80s, this scene experienced a revival with a number of the names associated with its origins being discovered to aid in bringing back the scene. Today, it has achieved worldwide popularity.
Now, I do not think this article does the actual history justice, as this is a style blog primarily, and so I encourage you to actually go and research the topic. It is an interesting study. Why I bring this up, however, is that in the modern setting, there has also been a resurrected interest in the styles of the era from which the dance originated.
While I could try to incorporate guidelines for how to recreate vintage style, I actually want to take a different route, as, truth be told, I think it would be more fun to present examples and imagery associated with the era from which to steal ideas. With the modern insurgence of men's style, there are virtually endless resources and examples to choose from, and frankly, there are some men who are just so good at it that it's unfair, presenting a far better example than I could.
This post is more just to give an idea of mine without going into detail, but it's definitely something I want to dive into. Hopefully, you'll enjoy me doing so.
Is there anything with vintage you'd want to see me write about? What sort of items do you have or do you like? Comment below!
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